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Rare traces of woad, madder, and pastel reveal secrets of 12th century t

Archaeologists in Belgium uncovered traces of woad, madder, and pastel during excavations in Brussels and Mechelen, particularly near the stream in Zakstraat. These plants were crucial for the production of textile colors in the Middle Ages. According to VRT NWS, these findings shed new light on medieval textile production in the region.

The excavations revealed that dyeing activities began at least by the middle of the 12th century in Brussels, well before what is found in historical sources. The traces of dye plants were found in fluvial layers dating from the 10th to the 15th century and are likely remnants of dyers’ waste, as reported by Le Soir.

“It is the first time that we find the three main dye plants together in our country,” said archaeobotanist Lien Speleers, according to Gazet van Antwerpen. “The three plants form the basis for primary colors. They were often combined to make other shades like green, orange, purple, and even black.”

Woad, madder, and pastel are considered the three most important dye plants of the Middle Ages. Woad produced yellow dye, madder produced red dye, and woad produced blue dye. These plants were indispensable in the medieval cloth industry, contributing to the prosperity of cities like Mechelen. RTBF reports that the discovery of woad (Isatis tinctoria) is a first in Belgium.

In Brussels, the findings come from the neighborhood around the Brucity building and the former Parking 58 between Sint-Katelijneplein and Anspachlaan. In Mechelen, traces were found around the neighborhood of Zakstraat, including the Melaan. Both areas had water flows and inland ports during the Middle Ages.

According to VRT NWS, Brussels and Mechelen were important textile production centers in Europe at the time, with dye workshops along the rivers that provided water for the dyeing process. “These dyeing activities in Brussels do not reflect in written sources,” noted the report.

“Remains had already been discovered in neighboring countries, and we already knew, thanks to historical sources, that pastel was used to obtain blue dye, but it’s the first time we find archaeological evidence of it. This finally gives us tangible proof,” explained Speleers, according to RTBF.

At the Parking 58 site in Brussels, more than 70 samples revealed an abundance of woad seeds and fragments of madder roots, accompanied by small fruits of pastel. In Mechelen, the fluvial deposits showed a similar pattern, with a mixture of remains of dye plants and other waste, as reported by Le Soir.

Archaeological evidence of dye plants is rare because leaves and roots, the parts used for dyeing, do not preserve well. Researchers discovered fruits of woad in the samples, probably accidentally included during the harvest.

In Mechelen, the city was known for its wool industry centuries ago. “In the past, woad and madder played a crucial role in the wool industry to color wool,” reported Gazet van Antwerpen. Especially woad required specialized techniques from blue dyers.


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Speleers emphasized the uniqueness of the findings. “Woad and madder had already been found in Belgium in the past, but the discovery of pastel is a first,” she said.

The streams in the Mechelen city center gradually became open sewers, which caused them to be filled in the past. The Melaan was another important watercourse in Mechelen. “They were essential for dyeing. They provided not only water, but they were also an easy place to dispose of waste,” Speleers explained.

The historical harbor along the now-covered Zenne River in Brussels was a watercourse essential for the textile industry.

The article was written with the assistance of a news analysis system.





This article was originally published at www.jpost.com

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